Residential Safe Locksmith in Brooklyn – LockIK Opens, Installs & Repairs
Quiet truth: half the “home safes” I open in Brooklyn apartments aren’t much better than the bottom drawer of a dresser with a tiny lock on it. I’m Harold “Hal” Levine-31 years working with safes and vaults, first as a custodian in a Downtown Brooklyn bank watching people trust their whole life to steel deposit boxes, now as a residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn, NY helping homeowners choose, install, open, and repair the kind of safe that actually protects what matters when fire, theft, or plain forgetfulness shows up at your door.
Quiet truth: most “home safes” in Brooklyn are just heavy lockboxes
From a former bank man’s point of view, the lock is the last thing that matters on a safe-the steel, the anchoring, and the fire rating decide whether your stuff survives, not the beeping keypad. I spent years in a vault room watching people put wills, rings, passports, and small heirlooms behind real steel that was rated, bolted, and monitored, and when I moved into residential work I kept thinking the same question: why do families trust a $200 office-store box that weighs less than a microwave and has no fire rating beyond a marketing sticker? Most “home safes” sold in big-box stores are lockboxes-thin gauge steel, foam fire insulation that might last twenty minutes in a real blaze, and boltwork you can bypass with a butter knife and patience. A real safe has a UL fire rating (one hour minimum for documents, two-plus for media), burglary resistance that involves multiple steel layers or relockers, and anchoring hardware so it can’t walk out in somebody’s backpack during a break-in.
Think of a home safe like a seatbelt you never see working-if you buy the cheapest belt and never bolt it to the car, you can’t be surprised when it doesn’t save you in a crash. What belongs in a safe? The stuff your family can’t replace or reproduce quickly: passports and birth certificates (especially if you’re close to JFK or LaGuardia and travel on short notice), property deeds and co-op share documents (common in Park Slope and Prospect Heights brownstones), small irreplaceable heirlooms like wedding rings or military medals, backup hard drives with scanned family photos, medications that need secure storage away from kids, and firearms if you’re legally storing them at home. What doesn’t belong? Big cash hoards better held in a bank account, everyday jewelry you actually wear, documents you can request duplicates of in a week, or anything so large it forces you to buy an impractically huge safe that won’t fit through your apartment door. I always sit at your table in Brooklyn and make you list what you *think* goes in a safe-then I cross half of it off and circle the items that genuinely need steel, a rating, and a plan.
So now we know what actually belongs in a safe. Next question is what you’re worried about hurting it: fire, thief, or both? The answer shapes which safe you buy, where you put it in your Brooklyn home, and how a residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn, NY like me installs and anchors it so it’s not just another decoration in your closet. Let’s look at the myths people believe versus what I’ve learned opening, repairing, and installing hundreds of safes across brownstones, co-ops, and walk-ups.
| Myth | Fact from a Brooklyn residential safe locksmith |
|---|---|
| A heavy safe doesn’t need to be bolted down | I still remember watching a moving crew roll a “heavy safe” straight out of an apartment on a dolly because nobody had ever bothered to bolt it down. Weight slows a thief for maybe two minutes-anchoring stops them from taking the whole unit. |
| “Fireproof” means it protects everything inside | Most cheap safes labeled “fireproof” protect paper documents for 30-60 minutes at best. If you’re storing digital media, jewelry, or photos, you need a higher fire rating (1-2 hours UL-rated) or a composite safe designed for valuables, not just paper. |
| Electronic keypads are always better than dial locks | Electronic locks are convenient until the batteries die at 2 a.m. or the cheap circuit board fails. Mechanical dial locks have fewer points of failure and don’t need power-bank vaults still use them for a reason. |
| Bigger is always better for home safes | A safe that’s too large for your actual contents just tempts you to fill it with junk and makes placement harder in tight Brooklyn apartments. Right-sizing the safe to what you’re really protecting keeps it discreet and easier to anchor properly. |
| You can install a home safe yourself with basic tools | DIY installation often means wrong anchoring (plastic anchors in drywall instead of proper bolts into studs or concrete), no consideration for floor structure in old buildings, and safes placed in obvious spots. A residential safe locksmith evaluates your building type and anchors it right the first time. |
Choosing the right residential safe for your Brooklyn home
Start with what you’re protecting, not the keypad
If we were sitting at your kitchen table in Brooklyn right now and you told me, “We’ve been thinking about a safe,” I’d ask you to do one thing before I show you a single catalog page: write down everything you believe should go inside. Then I’d hand you a red pen and we’d cross off half of it together. Birth certificates, yes-you can’t get on a flight without proof of citizenship, and ordering a replacement takes weeks. The deed to your Park Slope brownstone or your co-op share documents from a Downtown Brooklyn building, absolutely-those are hard to replace and prove ownership if there’s ever a dispute. Small heirlooms like your grandmother’s ring or your father’s military medal, things with emotional weight that can’t be reordered from a government office, those belong in steel. But your everyday jewelry? Wear it or keep it in a safety deposit box if it’s worth serious money. Copies of bills and statements you can download again? Those don’t need a safe, they need a cloud backup. Once we’ve circled the real stuff-passports for your family’s next trip to JFK, medications that need to be locked away from kids, maybe a legally owned firearm-*that* short list tells us exactly how much space you need and what threats we’re planning for.
Fire vs burglary vs both: which rating matters for you?
Here’s the blunt truth: a safe that’s good at stopping fire usually isn’t great at stopping a crowbar, and a safe built to resist burglary often has only basic fire insulation. If you’re mostly worried about a kitchen fire spreading through your rental or a brownstone blaze (common enough in older Brooklyn buildings with outdated wiring), you want a UL-rated fire safe-look for at least one hour at 1700°F for documents, two hours if you’re storing hard drives or photos. If you’re in a ground-floor apartment or a building with a history of break-ins and theft is your main fear, you want a burglary-rated safe: B-rate or RSC (Residential Security Container) means thicker steel, better boltwork, and real resistance to pry tools. For families who need both-protecting legal documents *and* valuables from multiple threats-there are composite safes that blend fire and burglary ratings, usually heavier and pricier, but worth it if you’re serious about a long-term family continuity plan. From my years around bank vaults, I prioritize steel thickness, the quality of the locking mechanism, and anchoring over any flashy feature a salesperson pitches, and I’ll tell you straight if that big-box “safe” is really just an expensive lockbox with a warranty you’ll never use.
Help Brooklyn homeowners decide what type of home safe they really need
START HERE → Are you mainly protecting documents from fire, or valuables from theft, or both?
Branch 1: Mostly documents (fire protection)
→ Recommend a document fire safe with at least 1-hour UL fire rating at 1700°F. Look for models that can be bolted to the floor or a closet shelf. Good for birth certificates, deeds, passports, and paper legal documents. If you’re in a Brooklyn apartment with limited space, a compact unit anchored to a closet floor works well.
Branch 2: Mostly valuables (theft protection)
→ Recommend a burglary-rated safe like B-rate or RSC (Residential Security Container) with thick steel and solid boltwork. Must be anchored to the floor or wall-preferably concrete slab or heavy joists in a brownstone. Protects jewelry, firearms, small heirlooms, and cash from pry tools and smash-and-grab theft.
Branch 3: Both fire and theft
→ Recommend a composite safe with both UL fire rating (1-2 hours) and burglary rating (B-rate or better). These are heavier and cost more, but they’re the real deal for families serious about protecting irreplaceable documents *and* valuables. Often placed in a basement or interior closet. I evaluate placement and anchoring on-site in Brooklyn apartments and brownstones to ensure the floor or wall can handle the weight and the safe stays discreet.
📍 Brooklyn-specific note: Apartments and brownstones may require different anchoring strategies-upper-floor walk-ups often have wood joists that need reinforcement, while garden-level units with concrete slabs make anchoring straightforward. A residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn, NY evaluates your building structure during the site visit.
| Safe type | Best for | Limitations in a Brooklyn home |
|---|---|---|
| Cheap box-store fire safe | Basic document storage if you’re on a tight budget and mainly worried about a small kitchen fire | Thin steel means a crowbar opens it in minutes. Fire rating is often 30-60 minutes max, won’t survive a serious blaze. Light weight makes it easy to steal if not bolted down, and most people never bolt these. |
| Burglary-rated safe (B-rate/RSC) | Jewelry, firearms, small heirlooms, and anything you’re protecting from break-ins | Minimal fire protection-usually none beyond the steel itself. Heavy, which is good for security but tough to move up narrow brownstone stairs or into a high-rise apartment without proper equipment. |
| Fire + burglary composite safe | Families who need to protect both documents and valuables from fire and theft-serious long-term solution | Expensive and very heavy (often 300+ lbs). Requires professional delivery and anchoring. May not fit through tight apartment doorways or narrow hallways in older Brooklyn buildings without advance planning. |
| In-wall safe | Discreet storage of passports, cash, small documents in a bedroom or closet | Installation requires cutting into drywall and finding solid studs-tricky in old brownstones with plaster or lath walls. Limited fire protection. Shared walls in rentals mean you may violate your lease or disturb neighbors. |
| Under-bed / portable lockbox | Quick-access for a single firearm or emergency cash; traveler’s lockbox in hotels | Not a real safe-thin steel, no fire rating, no burglary resistance. A thief grabs the whole box and opens it later with a screwdriver. Only useful if convenience matters more than security. |
In under ten minutes, someone with basic tools can bypass most “home safes” sold at big-box stores, open the thin steel body with a pry bar, or carry the whole unit out in a duffel bag. Do you actually trust the safe you have now?
Safe opening and repair: when your combination or keypad quits on you
Non-destructive safe opening whenever possible
One cold February afternoon in Park Slope, a couple called me panicked because they’d inherited a small combination safe from a grandparent and spun the dial “for fun” before realizing nobody alive knew the combo. It held the deed to their brownstone and some old jewelry. The manufacturer said, “We can send someone next month.” I came over with my stethoscope and a headlamp, listened through a couple of dialing cycles, felt the contact points, and manipulated the fence until the lock gave up its secret-not a single drill hole. We opened it together like a movie scene. Then I changed the combination to something they could remember and bolted the safe to the floor inside a closet instead of leaving it sitting loose under the bed. I told them, gently, “You don’t want this steel box walking away in somebody’s backpack.” That’s my stance on safe opening: drilling should be the last resort on a residential safe, not the first tool a locksmith reaches for because they don’t want to spend time on the dial. I carry a real safe stethoscope, lock manuals stained with years of coffee spills, and the patience to sit with a mechanical lock until it cooperates, because every hole you drill into a safe weakens it and costs the owner money to repair later.
Why that cheap electronic safe failed you
One swampy July evening in Bed-Stuy, a young family called because their cheap electronic “fireproof” safe from an office store had locked them out-beeping, flashing “error,” and holding passports they needed for a morning flight. Dad had already tried the “hit it on the top with your fist” trick from TikTok. I checked the model, smiled a little, and popped it open in under ten minutes with nothing more invasive than a thin tool and some persuasion, because the boltwork on those units is more plastic than anything. Once the documents were safe in their hands, I sat down with them and explained the difference between a document fire safe and a burglary-rated safe, and we ordered a proper one with a UL fire rating and real steel. When I came back to install it in a hall closet, I made sure they knew *that* one wouldn’t open with a punch. The takeaway: electronic keypads on cheap safes fail because the circuit boards are built to a price point, not a quality standard-batteries leak, solder joints crack in humidity, and the whole unit becomes a paperweight. A real fire or burglary safe uses better electronics or, better yet, a mechanical dial that doesn’t care if you lose power or if the weather turns bad. I tell Brooklyn homeowners this plainly: if you bought it at a big-box store for under $300 and it weighs less than your microwave, it’s not a safe, it’s a locked drawer, and when it fails you’ll wish you’d spent the money on something rated and anchored from the start.
⚠️ Dangers of forcing or DIY-opening a residential safe in Brooklyn
- Damaging internal lockwork: Prying, hammering, or using the wrong tools can jam the bolt mechanism or break the lock internals, turning a simple opening into an expensive drill job that could have been avoided.
- Voiding manufacturer warranty: Most safe warranties explicitly exclude damage from unauthorized opening attempts-if you force it open yourself, the manufacturer won’t cover repair or replacement.
- Triggering lockout modes or time delays: Many modern electronic safes have penalty lockouts after repeated wrong codes or physical tampering, adding hours or even days to the opening process.
- Injuring yourself or neighbors in tight Brooklyn apartments: Safes are heavy and awkward-forcing one can lead to units falling, pinched fingers, or damage to floors and walls in close quarters, especially in older buildings with narrow hallways and shared spaces.
A residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn, NY like LockIK prioritizes manipulation and professional tools before drilling, protecting both your safe and your investment.
Deciding if your safe problem in Brooklyn is an emergency
🚨 Call a residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn NOW
- Passports or critical travel documents locked inside before a same-week international flight from JFK or Newark
- Daily medications or emergency prescriptions inaccessible inside a locked safe
- Safe jammed half-open after a break-in or attempted theft, leaving contents exposed or lock damaged
- Gun safe that won’t open or won’t lock, creating an unsafe storage situation with firearms accessible or unsecured
📅 Can usually wait for a scheduled visit
- Forgotten combination but no immediate time pressure to access contents
- Electronic keypad acting up intermittently (slow to respond, occasional error beeps) but still opening most of the time
- Upgrading lock from mechanical dial to electronic keypad for convenience
- Moving a safe between rooms in your home or relocating it during a renovation or apartment change within Brooklyn
Professional safe installation and anchoring in Brooklyn homes
Why anchoring matters more than weight
One rainy Sunday morning in Bay Ridge, a widow called me because her late husband’s gun safe wouldn’t open, and the locksmith she called first had quoted her a full drill-and-replace without even asking the brand. It was an older mechanical dial safe, nothing exotic. I recognized the lock family from a bank job ten years earlier. We sat in her living room, I dialed through numbers slowly, feeling for drop-in points while she told me stories about her husband’s hunting trips. When the handle finally turned and we verified the contents, I changed the combination, installed a proper floor anchor kit into her concrete slab, and added a little interior light so she didn’t have to fumble with a flashlight. On a yellow sticky note inside the door, I wrote the dialing instructions-not the combo-so if she forgot under stress, the safe would still feel approachable rather than like an enemy. That experience reminded me why I insist on anchoring every residential safe I touch: I still remember watching a moving crew roll a “heavy safe” straight out of an apartment on a dolly because nobody had ever bothered to bolt it down. Weight slows a thief for maybe two minutes-anchoring stops them from taking the whole unit. Here’s the insider tip about safe placement and anchoring in Brooklyn: avoid obvious master-bedroom closets if possible and favor interior walls or corners where a thief has to spend extra time exposed; always consider floor structure in old brownstones (wood joists may need reinforcement) or upper-floor apartments (check weight limits); and in rentals, discuss anchoring with your landlord *before* drilling holes into their concrete or studs, because a properly anchored safe protects your belongings but also shows you’re serious about security, which most landlords respect.
How a home safe install with LockIK actually works
Think of a home safe like a seatbelt you never see working-if you buy the cheapest belt and never bolt it to the car, you can’t be surprised when it doesn’t save you in a crash. When I work with a family on a safe installation, I’m not just delivering a box with a lock on it; we’re building a quiet piece of a family continuity plan so that the important parts of their life-documents, heirlooms, sometimes firearms-outlast fires, break-ins, and forgetful moments. The process starts with a phone call where we talk through what you’re really protecting and what threats you’re planning for, then moves to an on-site visit where I look at your building structure-wood joists or concrete slab, wall studs behind drywall or old plaster, tight stairwells in a Prospect Heights walk-up or elevator access in a Downtown high-rise-and figure out discreet locations that balance access and security. We choose a safe based on the short list we made at your kitchen table, not on flashy features or sales pitches, and I explain the ratings and lock types in plain language. Delivery and placement come next, which in Brooklyn often means navigating narrow brownstone stairwells or timing elevator use around neighbors, and I coordinate all of that so you don’t have to. Then comes the anchoring: bolts into concrete if you’re lucky enough to have a slab, lag bolts into reinforced joists if you’re on an upper floor, or wall-mount brackets if the safe is lighter and floor anchoring isn’t possible. Finally, we do a full walkthrough of how the safe operates-combination setup, keypad programming, handle use-and I leave you with written dialing or access instructions (not the combo itself) so the safe feels like a tool you control, not a puzzle that controls you.
LockIK’s residential safe installation process in Brooklyn
Phone consult and brief contents/threats discussion – We talk through what you’re protecting (documents, valuables, firearms) and what you’re worried about (fire, theft, curious kids), so I understand your needs before recommending any specific safe model.
On-site visit in Brooklyn home to assess structure and discreet locations – I look at your floor type (wood joists, concrete slab), wall construction, stairwell or elevator access, and identify spots that balance convenience with security-avoiding obvious master-bedroom closets when possible.
Safe model selection: rating, size, lock type – We choose a safe based on your actual contents list and threat profile, focusing on UL fire ratings, burglary ratings (B-rate, RSC), and lock type (mechanical dial vs. electronic keypad) that fits your family’s habits.
Delivery and physical placement – I coordinate delivery and navigate the realities of Brooklyn buildings-narrow brownstone stairwells, walk-up apartments, tight elevator schedules-so your safe arrives and gets into position without damaging walls, floors, or your nerves.
Anchoring/bolting with appropriate hardware – I use proper floor or wall anchor kits-concrete bolts for slabs, lag bolts into reinforced joists for wood floors, or wall brackets for lighter units-and add protective material between the safe and your floor to prevent scratches or moisture damage.
Walkthrough of operation and written instructions – I show you how to operate the lock (dial sequence, keypad programming, handle use), set up your combination or code, and leave written dialing/use instructions inside the safe so it feels approachable, not intimidating, even under stress.
Why Brooklyn homeowners trust LockIK for residential safes
🔧 31+ years with safes and vaults
From Downtown Brooklyn bank vaults to brownstone closets-experience with real steel, real ratings, and real safe behavior under fire and forced entry.
✅ Licensed and insured in New York
Fully licensed New York locksmith and safe technician, bonded and insured to work in Brooklyn homes, co-ops, and rental properties.
🔍 Non-destructive safe opening first
Drilling is last resort-I prioritize manipulation, stethoscope work, and professional tools to open your safe without damage whenever possible.
🏙️ Local Brooklyn coverage
Park Slope, Bed-Stuy, Bay Ridge, Downtown, Prospect Heights-wherever you are in Brooklyn, I understand the building types, access challenges, and neighborhood realities.
Costs, upkeep, and what to do before you call a safe locksmith
Safe costs in Brooklyn range from a few hundred for a basic non-emergency opening to a couple thousand for a high-quality composite safe with professional installation and anchoring, and the key is understanding that a good home safe is part of a long-term family continuity plan, not a one-time gadget purchase. Regular maintenance-changing keypad batteries annually, testing your combination with the door open, checking that anchoring bolts haven’t loosened after a move or renovation-prevents 90% of lockouts and failures. Before you call a residential safe locksmith, having a few details ready-safe brand, lock type, what happened right before the problem, and your building access situation-speeds up service and helps us give you an accurate quote and timeline.
| Situation | Typical price range in Brooklyn (LockIK) |
|---|---|
| Non-emergency mechanical dial safe opening (no drilling) | $250-$450 depending on lock complexity and time required for manipulation |
| Electronic safe opening and keypad replacement | $200-$400 for opening plus $75-$150 for a quality replacement keypad and programming |
| New mid-size fire-rated document safe: supply + install in an apartment | $600-$1,200 including safe, delivery, placement, basic anchoring, and setup |
| Burglary-rated safe install in a brownstone with floor anchoring | $1,200-$2,500+ depending on safe size, weight, stairwell challenges, and concrete anchoring requirements |
| Moving and re-anchoring an existing safe within the same home | $200-$500 depending on safe weight, distance moved, and whether new anchoring hardware is needed |
✅ Information to gather before you call a residential safe locksmith in Brooklyn
- Safe brand and model – Look on the door, inside the door frame, or on the back if you can access it; if you can’t find it, take clear photos of the door, lock, and any labels
- Lock type – Is it a mechanical dial, electronic keypad, biometric fingerprint scanner, or old-fashioned key lock?
- Location in your home – Closet, bedroom, basement, behind furniture? Helps plan access and tools
- Bolted down or free-standing – If you’re not sure, try gently rocking the safe; if it doesn’t budge, it’s probably anchored
- What happened right before the problem – New batteries, wrong combo attempts, impact or drop, recent move, keypad acting up for weeks?
- Emergency access needed – Travel deadline, legal documents for a closing, medications, firearms that need securing?
- Building type and floor – Brownstone garden level, high-rise 10th floor, walk-up 3rd floor, rental vs. owned? Affects access and landlord permissions
Simple maintenance schedule to keep your home safe reliable
| Task | Recommended interval | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Change safe keypad batteries | Every 6-12 months | Use quality alkaline or lithium batteries; don’t wait for low-battery warning |
| Test combination/keypad and handle | Every year | With door open, dial full combination or enter code to verify lock operation before you need it in a rush |
| Professional locksmith check and lubrication | Every 2-3 years if heavily used | Dial and boltwork can accumulate dust and dry out; a quick service call keeps mechanisms smooth |
| Verify anchoring and re-level the safe | After any move or renovation | Floor settling or moving can loosen anchor bolts or tilt the safe; LockIK can schedule quick residential check-ups in Brooklyn |
Common questions Brooklyn homeowners ask a residential safe locksmith
Can you open my home safe in Brooklyn without drilling it?
In most cases, yes. I prioritize manipulation using a stethoscope, feeling the internal components, and working through the lock’s contact points to open mechanical dials non-destructively. For electronic safes, I use bypass techniques and manufacturer codes when available. Drilling is my last resort, reserved for locks that are severely damaged, locks with no manipulation path, or situations where time is absolutely critical and the owner accepts the trade-off. Every hole weakens the safe and costs money to repair, so I spend the time to avoid it whenever possible.
Will installing a safe damage my floors or landlord’s property?
Proper anchoring requires bolts, but I minimize damage by using the right hardware for your floor type-concrete anchors for slabs, lag bolts into solid joists for wood floors-and I always place protective material between the safe and your floor to prevent scratches or moisture transfer. In rentals, I recommend discussing the installation with your landlord first; most landlords appreciate tenants who take security seriously and are willing to allow anchoring as long as the holes are in discreet locations (like a closet floor) and can be patched when you move. I’ve helped many Brooklyn renters navigate this conversation and get approval by explaining the fire and theft protection benefits.
Is a mechanical dial or an electronic keypad better for a residential safe?
From my years in bank vaults, I lean toward mechanical dials for reliability-they have fewer failure points, no batteries to die at inconvenient times, and they last decades with minimal maintenance. Electronic keypads are faster and more convenient, especially if multiple family members need access or you want audit trails on some models, but they depend on electronics that can fail due to humidity, circuit board issues, or cheap components in lower-end safes. For a long-term family safe in Brooklyn, I usually recommend a quality mechanical lock unless speed of access is truly critical (like a gun safe where seconds matter). If you choose electronic, invest in a safe with a reputable lock brand and plan to change batteries annually.
Can you move my existing safe when I change apartments in Brooklyn?
Yes, and I do it regularly-moving safes between Brooklyn apartments, brownstones, and even between boroughs. The challenge is navigating narrow hallways, tight stairwells, and building access (elevator reservations, doorman coordination). I bring the right equipment-dollies, straps, protective blankets-and plan the route in advance. If your safe is anchored, I remove the bolts carefully, move the safe, and re-anchor it properly in your new location with fresh hardware if needed. Weight is the main variable: a 200-pound safe in a walk-up requires two people and careful planning, while a 500-pound burglary safe in a high-rise needs elevator access and sometimes building management approval. I give you an honest assessment of feasibility and cost after seeing both locations.
What should absolutely go in a home safe-and what shouldn’t?
This is where I sit you down at your kitchen table and make you list everything you *think* belongs in a safe, then cross half of it off. Should go in: passports and birth certificates (you can’t travel or prove identity without them), property deeds and co-op shares (hard to replace and prove ownership), irreplaceable small heirlooms like wedding rings or military medals, backup hard drives with scanned family photos, secure medications, and legally owned firearms if you need locked storage. Shouldn’t go in: large cash hoards better held in a bank account with FDIC insurance, everyday jewelry you actually wear (it’s safer on you or in a safety deposit box), documents you can request duplicates of easily (utility bills, credit card statements), or anything so bulky it forces you to buy an oversized safe you can’t anchor properly. A home safe is part of your family continuity plan-it protects the critical stuff that helps your family recover from fire, theft, or accidents, not everything you own.
A properly chosen, installed, and maintained residential safe in Brooklyn is quiet insurance for your family’s future-protecting the documents and heirlooms that matter when fire, theft, or forgetfulness shows up. If you’re ready to choose a real safe, need a safe opened without drilling it to pieces, or want to move and re-anchor a safe you already own, call LockIK to schedule a consult or urgent opening with Hal in Brooklyn, NY.