Car Ignition Locksmith in Brooklyn – LockIK Fixes Ignition Problems
Honestly, most ignition problems that strand people in Brooklyn-keys that won’t turn, keys that won’t come out, no power when you twist to ON, intermittent cranks-are solved at the lock cylinder or ignition switch level, not with whole new steering columns or computers, when a dedicated ignition locksmith like me shows up. This article will show you how I diagnose, repair, and price these problems curbside anywhere in Brooklyn, from the symptom in your hand to the bag of old parts I give you when we’re done.
Car Ignition Problems in Brooklyn: What Usually Fails (And What Doesn’t)
On the top shelf of my van, right above the key machine, there’s a line of little plastic boxes labeled ‘GM TIFF,’ ‘Honda 8-cut,’ ‘Ford sidebar,’ each one full of wafers and springs-because if I can rebuild your ignition to a fresh key, I don’t have to make you fall in love with a whole new column. That’s the perspective of a former dealer tech who got tired of replacing entire assemblies when the actual problem was a stack of brass pins the size of rice grains. Most ignition complaints-key won’t turn, key stuck, no power, intermittent crank-are usually solved at the lock cylinder or ignition switch, not with a column or ECM, when handled by someone who knows how to work at the component level. Here’s the blunt truth: an ignition that won’t turn is not a personality flaw-it’s brass and steel screaming that it’s done putting up with worn keys, heavy key rings, and people forcing it past the bind every winter. Think of your ignition like choosing the right level of surgery: re-pinning worn wafers is physical therapy, replacing a burnt switch is a proper band-aid, and swapping the whole column is open-heart surgery-most of you don’t need the scalpel, you just need someone who’ll work on the smallest part that actually solves the problem.
One freezing January morning in East New York, a rideshare driver’s 2011 Altima showed up on a hook with a note from the shop: “ignition locked up, needs column.” The key wouldn’t turn past ACC no matter how hard you leaned on it. I climbed in, looked at the blade-polished smooth from years of copies-and tried my own try: no go, which was actually good news. I pulled the steering shroud, dropped the ignition cylinder, and on the bench you could see two wafers mushroomed from a lifetime of heavy key rings. I recoded the cylinder to a fresh key cut from the factory code instead of the worn original, dropped in new wafers, reinstalled it, and the next twist from OFF to START felt like it did on day one. Total parts cost: a handful of pins and a key blank. The driver stared at the bag of old guts in my hand and said, “That’s all I was about to buy a column for?” That’s exactly the point: when you work at the lock level instead of throwing assemblies, you see that most ignitions don’t want replacement, they want attention.
Your ignition can fail in three major categories, and knowing which bucket you’re in will save you serious money and aggravation. Mechanical failures show up when the key won’t turn, won’t come out, or feels mushy-that’s worn wafers, damaged springs, or a key that’s been copied so many times it doesn’t match the lock anymore. Electrical failures present as no dash lights, intermittent crank, no power in the ON position, or everything working only when you wiggle the key a certain way-that’s a failing ignition switch at the back of the lock, burnt contacts, or a cracked harness plug. Interlock failures are the odd ones: key won’t turn because the steering wheel is locked hard against the column pin, or it won’t come out because the shifter isn’t in Park right, or nothing cranks because the brake-pedal switch isn’t telling the system you’re ready. The good news for almost everyone reading this: your problem lives in the lock cylinder or the electrical switch stack behind it, not in the computer or the engine management system, and that’s exactly where an ignition specialist works every day.
| Myth (What Brooklyn Drivers Often Hear) | Fact (What an Ignition Specialist Actually Sees) |
|---|---|
| “If the key won’t turn, you need a whole new steering column.” | Most no-turn situations are worn wafers or a bad key copy; rebuilding the cylinder to a fresh, code-cut key usually fixes it without touching the column. |
| “Intermittent no-crank means your ECM or security system is bad.” | Intermittent no-crank is often a failing electrical ignition switch at the back of the lock, not the ECM or immobilizer-especially when the dash stays dark until you wiggle the key. |
| “Once a key gets sticky, just spray more lubricant into the ignition.” | Over-lubing or using the wrong spray just gums up the wafers; a proper strip-down, cleaning, and re-pinning is the correct ‘reset’ for a tired ignition. |
| “If one key won’t start it, none of them will-must be the starter.” | It’s common for one worn key to fail while a fresh code-cut key works perfectly, because the lock is trying to read the shape that’s no longer there on the old blade. |
| “Any locksmith can handle ignition work the same way a specialist does.” | Ignition work lives where locksmithing and auto electrical overlap; a specialist who lives on columns and switches every day will diagnose and repair faster and cheaper than a generalist. |
LockIK Ignition Service at a Glance
I come to your car anywhere in Brooklyn-street parking, driveway, parking lot, double-parked if that’s what the situation calls for.
I work at the wafer, spring, and switch level-not the “replace the whole assembly” level-so you pay for what actually failed.
I’ll tell you straight if you need a rebuild, a rekey, or just a new key-and I won’t sell you a column if I can fix it with files and pins.
Before I leave, I hand you the worn wafers, broken springs, or scorched switch in a baggie so you see exactly why your ignition was acting up.
How I Diagnose Your Ignition in a Brooklyn Parking Spot
If we were sitting in your car in Brooklyn right now and you said, “The key used to stick, now it won’t turn at all,” I’d put one hand on the key and ask you three things before I touch a tool: how many copies down from the original that key is, whether the steering wheel is jammed against the lock, and what, if anything, another shop has already sprayed into or pounded on the cylinder. One muggy July night in Flatbush, a nurse in a 2008 Civic called from the hospital lot: key stuck in ignition, engine off, can’t get it to budge or come out, security telling her they’ll tow it in the morning. I met her there after midnight. First thing I checked was the shift interlock-brake lights worked, Park switch clicked, so that wasn’t it. The steering wheel, though, was cranked hard against the curb. I had her put her hands on the wheel while I rocked it gently to take the load off the steering lock; with the pressure gone, the key moved that last stubborn millimeter to LOCK and slid out. We weren’t done, though. I pulled the cylinder and found the plug full of pocket lint and worn brass. I cleaned and lubed it properly, cut two new keys to code, put everything back together, and then made her lock and unlock the wheel with the new keys a few times so she could feel what “normal” was supposed to be before she went home. That’s the reality of working in Brooklyn: hospital lots, overnight security threatening to tow, tight street parking-and half the time, the diagnosis starts with what your hands can feel and what you can tell me about the history, not just a scan tool and a parts list.
Here’s how the diagnostic flow actually works in plain language: I sort failures into mechanical, electrical, or interlock categories with my hands, a meter, and the feel of the key. Mechanical means the lock won’t turn or won’t release the key-I’m checking for worn wafers, broken springs, damaged housings, and whether the key blade still matches what the lock expects. Electrical means you’ve got power issues-no dash, no crank, intermittent operation-so I’m testing the ignition switch at the back of the lock, checking continuity through each position, and hunting for burnt contacts or cracked harness plugs. Interlock means something upstream is holding the system hostage-steering lock, shifter position, brake-pedal switch-and I’ll walk through each link in that chain until I find what’s not releasing. Before you call, here’s a quick insider tip: try a spare key that was cut earlier in the car’s life, check if the steering wheel has tension on it, and verify that your brake lights come on when you press the pedal. Don’t force the key or hammer anything, because that just turns a rebuild into a replacement. If you’ve done those checks and it still won’t cooperate, it’s time for a specialist.
Figure Out What Kind of Ignition Problem You Have
Is the steering wheel locked tight?
When you turn to ON, does the dashboard light up?
- NO, and brake lights work: Likely shifter/brake interlock – still an ignition locksmith job
- NO, and brake lights don’t work: Brake switch or interlock – not dealer-only, I handle these
- YES, cranks but won’t start: That’s probably not ignition hardware-check fuel, spark, security system
Before You Call: Quick Checks You Can Do From the Driver’s Seat
- Try your other key (the oldest original you have, not the newest copy)
- Check if the steering wheel has tension-rock it slightly in both directions while trying the key
- Make sure the shifter is fully in Park (or Neutral if it’s a manual) and clicks into place
- Press the brake pedal and verify the brake lights come on (have someone look or check in a reflection)
- Look at the key blade-is it worn smooth, bent, or obviously damaged compared to a newer cut?
- Note what’s been done already-has anyone sprayed lubricant into the cylinder, hammered on it, or forced it past a bind?
- Write down the symptoms exactly-does it act up when hot, when cold, all the time, or only after the car sits overnight?
These checks help me diagnose faster when I arrive, but don’t force anything-if it won’t move, stop there and let me take it from that point.
Ignition Repair vs Replacement: Picking the Right Level of Surgery
From someone who’s been paid flat-rate to replace an entire steering column in under an hour, my honest opinion is this: dealerships throw assemblies at problems because it’s fast on paper-not because your car actually needed that much surgery. That’s the perspective I bring to ignition work now: every job is about choosing the right level of surgery, not just grabbing the biggest part in the catalog. Think of a re-pinned cylinder like physical therapy for an old knee-you’re restoring the original joint with fresh components and proper alignment, not cutting it out and bolting in something new. A new ignition switch is like a proper band-aid that actually seals the wound-it targets the exact electrical contact that’s failing without disturbing everything else in the stack. A full column swap, though, is open-heart surgery: you’re tearing out the entire steering shaft, lock housing, wiring harness, and mounting hardware, then hoping the transplant fits and mates to your existing door locks and computer. One rainy Sunday in Carroll Gardens, a 2014 Ford Focus that had already been “diagnosed” with a bad ECM landed in front of me. The complaint was: sometimes the key turned but nothing on the dash lit up, sometimes it cranked, sometimes dead. The shop had thrown a battery and a starter relay at it, then punted. In the driver’s seat, I turned the key to ON: no cluster, no chime, but if I wiggled the key just right, everything sprang to life. Classic worn electrical ignition switch. I pulled the column covers and found the switch on the back of the lock cylinder browned at the contacts. Instead of a whole column, I replaced just the switch, checked continuity through each position with my meter, and verified that the mechanical lock part was still crisp with a new key. When the owner turned the key after that and the dash woke up like it’s supposed to, I dropped the burnt switch into his baggie and said, “Your car didn’t need a brain, it just needed a better light switch.” That repair cost a fraction of the ECM quote, and it took twenty minutes once the right part was in my hands.
So when does a rebuild or rekey make sense, and when do you actually need the whole column? A rebuild or rekey is appropriate when the lock cylinder itself is the problem: worn wafers, broken springs, damaged sidebar, or a key that’s been copied into oblivion. I’ll pull the cylinder, bench it, replace the internal components, code it to a fresh factory-cut key, and reinstall it-your steering column, your wiring, your switch housing all stay untouched, and you keep using the same key pattern you’ve always had (just with a blade that actually matches the lock now). Full housing or column replacement is truly necessary when the casting is cracked, the lock housing has been drilled or hammered apart in a theft attempt, the column shaft itself is bent from a crash, or the mounting brackets are broken. Those are structural failures, not component failures. Your problem is almost always at the lock or switch, not in the computer, and that’s exactly where I work. If you’re being quoted for a column and you haven’t had a wreck or a break-in, get a second opinion from someone who knows how to rebuild what’s already there.
Ignition Rebuild/Repair
(LockIK Approach)
- Targets the lock cylinder wafers and/or ignition switch only
- Keeps your steering column and most hardware original
- Usually allows keeping existing key pattern (re-pinned to a fresh code-cut key)
- Lower parts cost; labor focused on skilled bench work
- Ideal for worn wafers, sticky keys, intermittent switch issues
Full Column/Assembly Replacement
(Typical Dealer Approach)
- Replaces the entire column or large assemblies sight unseen
- Often changes how many keys you need for doors vs ignition
- High parts cost, more collision-level work than lock work
- Flat-rate friendly but rarely the minimal necessary fix
- Only truly needed after severe theft, crash, or broken housings
| Putting It Off (“I’ll just deal with it”) | Fixing It Now (Call LockIK) |
|---|---|
| Risk: You’ll get stranded in Brooklyn at the worst possible time-after work, late at night, when you need to move the car for street cleaning. | Benefit: One appointment on your schedule, car fixed where it sits, and you’re back on the road with confidence that it’ll turn every time. |
| Escalation: Forcing a stiff ignition wears the wafers faster and can crack the housing-turning a $200 repair into a $600 replacement. | Prevention: Catching it early means I can rebuild what’s there instead of replacing the whole stack, and you save the difference. |
| Cost reality: A tow plus emergency after-hours dealer service will cost more than my mobile repair during business hours-and you’ll still need the repair done. | Cost reality: I come to you in Brooklyn, fix it curbside with the right parts, and you pay for the work once instead of tow + diagnosis + repair separately. |
| Daily stress: Every time you turn the key you’re wondering “is this the time it won’t work?” and planning backup transportation in your head. | Peace of mind: You turn the key and it just works, the way it did when the car was new, because the internal parts are fresh and properly matched. |
What LockIK Actually Does When You Call for Ignition Help in Brooklyn
On the top shelf of my van, right above the key machine, there’s a line of little plastic boxes labeled ‘GM TIFF,’ ‘Honda 8-cut,’ ‘Ford sidebar,’ each one full of wafers and springs-because if I can rebuild your ignition to a fresh key, I don’t have to make you fall in love with a whole new column. That’s exactly how an ignition nerd who fixes at component level organizes parts, and it’s the same approach I bring to every call in Brooklyn. Here’s the on-site process from arrival through test: I verify the complaint by trying the key myself and asking you to show me exactly what it does or doesn’t do, then I sort the failure type-mechanical (won’t turn), electrical (no power), or interlock (something else is holding it). I pull the steering shroud covers, expose the lock and switch assembly, and decide whether we’re benching the cylinder or testing the switch. If it’s mechanical, I pull the cylinder, take it to my bench in the van, strip it down, replace the worn components, code it to a fresh key cut from your VIN or lock code, reinstall it, and test every position from LOCK to START. If it’s electrical, I’m checking continuity at the switch, looking for burnt contacts or broken harness pins, replacing the failed part, and verifying voltage at every key position with my meter. Then I reassemble everything, make sure all the plastic clips and covers go back where they belong, and road-test it right where your car sits-meaning I turn the key twenty times, lock and unlock the steering, and make you do it too so you feel what “normal” is supposed to be.
The reality of working in Brooklyn means I’m doing this on tight brownstone blocks, in hospital parking lots where security is circling, and occasionally in a double-parked situation where we’ve got maybe thirty minutes before someone loses their mind. I’ve rebuilt ignitions in Flatbush with a neighbor’s extension cord powering my bench grinder, diagnosed switches in Bed-Stuy with the hood up and a flashlight, and rekeyed cylinders in Williamsburg while the owner ran in to grab their spare key from upstairs. Before I leave, I always hand you the old parts in a baggie-worn wafers, broken springs, scorched switch-so you can see exactly what failed and why your ignition was acting like it had a hangover. That’s not a sales gimmick, it’s proof: you’re not taking my word that something was wrong, you’re holding the evidence in your hand. Response time depends on where you are in Brooklyn and what else is in the queue, but most days I’m there within an hour for an emergency and can usually book a same-day or next-day appointment if it’s not urgent. When you call, be ready to tell me the year, make, and model, what the key does or doesn’t do, and whether you’ve got a safe place for me to work-I’ll handle the rest.
Step-by-Step: A Typical LockIK Car Ignition Service Call
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1
You call or text LockIK and describe the symptom: key won’t turn, key stuck, no power, intermittent crank, or something else weird happening when you try to start your car in Brooklyn. -
2
I ask three quick questions: year/make/model, what exactly the key does when you turn it, and where the car is sitting (street, lot, driveway, or double-parked in a pinch). -
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I give you a time window-usually within an hour for an emergency, same-day or next-day if it’s not urgent-and head to your location in Brooklyn with the parts and tools already in the van. -
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I verify the complaint in person: I try the key myself, watch what it does (or doesn’t do), and ask you to show me the exact behavior so we’re diagnosing the same thing. -
5
I pull the steering column covers and expose the lock/switch assembly, then sort the failure: mechanical (lock internals), electrical (switch or wiring), or interlock (steering/shifter/brake upstream). -
6
I perform the repair right there: If it’s mechanical, I pull the cylinder and bench it in the van-strip it, replace worn wafers/springs, code it to a fresh key, reinstall. If it’s electrical, I test the switch with a meter, replace the failed contacts or harness, and verify continuity through all key positions. -
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I reassemble everything-all the covers, clips, and trim go back exactly as they came off-and then test the ignition through every position multiple times: LOCK, ACC, ON, START, back to OFF, pull the key, lock the steering wheel. -
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I hand you the bag of old parts-the worn wafers, broken springs, or scorched switch-so you can see exactly what failed, then make you turn the key a few times yourself so you know what “working right” feels like before I leave.
Why Brooklyn Drivers Trust LockIK With Their Ignitions
I spent a decade in dealer service bays before going independent, so I know both the flat-rate game and the right way to fix ignitions at the component level.
Every job ends with me handing you a baggie of the old wafers, springs, or switch so you know exactly what broke and why-no mystery repairs.
I’ll tell you straight if you need a rebuild, a rekey, or just a fresh key-and I won’t sell you a column if pins and a proper key cut will fix it.
I come to your car wherever it’s sitting-Flatbush, Bed-Stuy, Williamsburg, Carroll Gardens, East New York-street, lot, or driveway, and fix it on the spot.
This isn’t a side service-ignition diagnosis and repair is what I do all day, every day, so I’m faster and more accurate than a generalist locksmith or a parts-swapping shop.
Call Now (Emergency)
- Key won’t turn at all and you’re stuck somewhere in Brooklyn right now
- Key is stuck in the ignition and you can’t remove it or lock the car
- No power to the dash, no crank, and you need the car moved immediately
- Ignition free-spins or the key falls out-unsafe to drive
- You’re about to be towed or ticketed and need the car operational fast
Can Usually Wait (Schedule It)
- Key is stiff or sticky but still turns if you work it carefully
- Intermittent issues that come and go-sometimes cranks, sometimes doesn’t
- You have a backup key or another car and can plan the appointment
- The car starts fine now but you know something’s wearing out
- You want preventive service before a problem leaves you stranded
Brooklyn Ignition Service Costs, Coverage, and How to Avoid Repeat Trouble
$150-$400 is the range you’re looking at for most car ignition locksmith work in Brooklyn, depending on whether we’re rebuilding a common cylinder (lower end), replacing an electrical switch and sorting out a wiring issue (mid-range), or dealing with theft damage or a less-common vehicle that needs specialty parts (higher end). That pricing reflects mobile service, on-site diagnosis, component-level repair, fresh code-cut keys when needed, and the bag of old parts you’ll get at the end so you see exactly what failed. A full steering column replacement at a dealer can run $800-$1,500 or more, which is why I’m so direct about working at the lock and switch level first-most of you don’t need the surgery, you need the targeted repair. Prevention is straightforward: get fresh keys cut to code instead of copying worn blades, keep your key ring light (every extra fob and loyalty card is leverage wearing on the cylinder), and catch early stiffness before it turns into a hard stop. Think of your ignition like the receptionist at a busy office: if you hand them a mangled ID badge and slam the door, eventually they stop letting you in; if you give them a clean card and ask nicely, the whole building wakes up like it’s supposed to. Treat the lock kindly-proper keys, no forcing, a little attention when it starts to feel different-and it’ll last you the life of the car without drama.
| Scenario | What I Typically Do | Typical Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Key won’t turn, no other damage Most common call in Brooklyn |
Pull cylinder, replace worn wafers/springs, code to fresh key, reinstall and test | $150-$250 |
| Intermittent no-power or no-crank Dash lights work sometimes, not others |
Test ignition switch with meter, replace burnt contacts or full switch assembly, verify continuity | $180-$300 |
| Key stuck in ignition, won’t come out Common after long drives or in tight parking |
Check steering lock and shifter interlock first, then clean and rekey cylinder if internal wear is preventing LOCK position | $150-$280 |
| Lost key, need new ignition key coded No spare, need to access lock code and cut from VIN |
Pull cylinder or read lock code, cut key to factory code, test and verify operation | $180-$320 |
| Ignition damaged in theft attempt Lock drilled, hammered, or pried; housing may be cracked |
Assess housing damage; if repairable, rebuild cylinder and replace damaged switch; if cracked, may need housing or column section | $250-$500+ (Depends on extent of damage) |
Note: All prices include mobile service to your location in Brooklyn, on-site diagnosis, parts, labor, and the bag of old components so you see what failed. Specialty vehicles, high-security locks, or unusual configurations may be higher-I’ll quote you a firm price before I start work.
Simple Schedule to Keep Your Ignition From Stranding You in Brooklyn
| Task | When / Trigger | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Cut fresh keys to code | Every 50k miles or when key feels worn smooth | Worn keys accelerate wafer wear; a code-cut key is a “reset” for the lock |
| Clean & inspect ignition | When key starts feeling stiff or sticky | Pocket lint, old lube, and debris gum up wafers-catching it early avoids hard lockup |
| Lighten your key ring | Right now (ongoing habit) | Heavy key rings create leverage that wears the lock cylinder and switch faster over time |
| Check for play/looseness | Once a year or if something feels “off” | Excessive play in the key or column can mean worn lock housing or loose mounting-catch it before it fails completely |
Common Questions Brooklyn Drivers Ask About Ignition Locksmith Work
How fast can you get to me in Brooklyn if my ignition won’t turn right now?
For an emergency-key won’t turn, you’re stuck, car needs to move-I’m usually there within an hour depending on where you are in Brooklyn and what else is in the queue. If it’s not an emergency and you can wait, I can typically book same-day or next-day service. When you call, tell me your exact location and I’ll give you a realistic time window, not a promise I can’t keep.
Can you work on push-button start or keyless ignition systems?
Yes, but the diagnostic approach is different. Push-button systems still have a mechanical steering lock and an electronic start switch-I can diagnose and replace failing steering locks, bad start buttons, and related interlock issues. If the problem is deeper in the immobilizer or body control module, I’ll tell you straight and refer you to the right specialist instead of guessing.
What happens if my key is completely lost vs just stuck in the ignition?
If your key is lost, I’ll pull the lock cylinder or access the code, cut a new key from the factory code (not a copy of a copy), and make sure it operates the lock correctly. If the key is stuck in the ignition, I’m diagnosing why it won’t release-usually it’s a steering lock bind, shifter interlock issue, or worn cylinder that’s not reaching the LOCK position properly. Two different problems, two different fixes, but both are things I handle on-site in Brooklyn.
Will fixing my ignition change the key I use for my doors and trunk?
Not if I can help it. When I rebuild or rekey your ignition cylinder, I code it to match your existing key pattern whenever possible-meaning the same key that opens your doors will still open your doors and now start your car the way it’s supposed to. If the ignition housing is damaged beyond repair and needs replacement, we might end up with two keys (one for ignition, one for doors), but that’s a last-resort situation and I’ll tell you upfront if that’s where we’re headed.
Is it safe to have ignition work done curbside in Brooklyn, or should the car be in a shop?
It’s completely safe and actually more convenient for you. I’ve rebuilt ignitions on brownstone blocks, in hospital parking lots, and in tight street spots all over Brooklyn. The work happens inside your car and at my mobile bench in the van-I’m not welding or using heavy machinery, just hand tools, a key machine, and a multimeter. As long as there’s enough space for me to open the driver’s door and work without blocking traffic, we’re good to go. You get your car fixed where it sits, no tow, no leaving it overnight at a shop.
What if I’ve already had another shop look at it and they told me I need a whole new column?
Get a second opinion before you commit to that bill. From someone who used to work flat-rate at a dealer, I can tell you that “needs a column” is often the fast answer when the real problem is a $40 switch or a cylinder that just needs fresh wafers and a proper key. I’ll diagnose it honestly: if you truly need a column because the housing is cracked or the shaft is bent, I’ll tell you. If the lock or switch can be rebuilt and save you hundreds, I’ll show you exactly what’s worn and fix that instead. Either way, you’ll know what’s actually wrong before you spend the money.
Your problem is almost always at the lock cylinder or ignition switch-not in the steering column, not in the computer-and that’s exactly where I work as a car ignition locksmith in Brooklyn. If your key won’t turn, won’t come out, or the dash only wakes up when you jiggle it just right, call LockIK now for on-site ignition diagnosis and repair anywhere in Brooklyn, NY, before a small problem turns into an all-out tow-and-column job that costs three times what the actual fix should be.